Thrifting 101, Part 19: Dating vintage clothes by era - the 1990's

Four weeks ago in Thrifting 101, I began exploring the history of fashion from the 1920's to the 1950's  in order to help you determine the age of a garment while thrifting. Three week ago, we focused on the 1960's; a week after that, we delved into the 1970's, and last week we examined the 1980's. This week I'll follow the fashion timeline through the 1990's. Understanding more about the history of modern dressing is a great way to figure out when a garment was made.

Missed any previous parts of the series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs, tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments, and tips for shopping for vintage online.

The 1990's

90's style and fashion was heavily influenced by TV, Hollywood and the music industry. Fashion fads of the 1990's took us from looks inspired by Beverly Hills, 90210 and Melrose Place, to the Grunge style of Nirvana and My So-Called Life. While the 1980's represented a time of exuberant and outrageous fashions in a neon rainbow of colors, the '90s brought a more somber Grunge-inspired note and proceeded forward with flatter hair and a more subdued palette.

Early 1990's

The early 1990s saw a continuation of 1980s fashion. Women wore tight-fitting stirrup or drainpipe pants with elastic straps, oversized denim shirts, neon colors, straight-leg, high waisted jeans, baggy sweaters in bold colors and patterns, and black leather jackets. Colored tights remained popular, often paired with denim skirts, ankle boots, and short dresses.

Early 1990's Chanel ad

The first new nineties silhouette was the 1991-2 fingertip-length longer line jacket that moved down an inch for every year of the era. It was worn with an above knee skirt or flirtatious circular layered or snappy pleated skirt. Ra-Ra skirts, composed of short frills or net set on a mini skirt were popular in the early 90's.

A short, sleeveless, boat neck shift dress that initially showed about 8 inches of the lower dress under the jacket was seen as a useful business outfit. This last look remained an acceptable fashion for the decade, one which could be dressed up or down.

Also emerging in the early 1990's was the Empire-waisted babydoll dress, in bold floral prints, plaids, and polka dots. These dresses were often accented with lace trim, oversized collars, embroidery, and contrasting stitching, and became easily translated into maternity and plus-size styles. Leggings were occasionally worn under babydoll dresses or on their own with oversized sweatshirts and tees.

A vintage babydoll dress

Casualwear became much more important in the nineties, as a more youthful generation became increasingly influential in popular culture. Structured shapes of the eighties gave way to soft draping and loose-fitting silhouettes. By the edge of the 21st century dressing down in every aspect of life became an acceptable norm. Ordinary retail clothing sales, textile manufacturing industries and stores all declined from a less active more casual marketplace.

As a result of the nod towards casualwear, denim saw a brief reemergence in popularity. Jeans and denim jackets were available in coordinating colors, typically in pastel and dark shades rather than the bleached acid wash of the 1980s. Women began to pay closer attention to brand, often favoring designer labels over fit. Calvin Klein, Guess, and JNCO developed baggier silhouettes with large back pockets. Though women increasingly turned to cargo pants, leggings and chinos, jeans were still utilized in casual looks.

Preppy

A still from the film Clueless, 1995

The preppy looks of the 1980's continued into the nineties, though through bolder colors and more form-fitting silhouettes. Replacing the penny loafer of the 1980's were white Keds canvas sneakers, often paired with white slouchy socks tucked over chinos or straight leg jeans. It was not unusual to see multi-generations of women wearing similar footwear. Abbreviated tartan skirts in bold colors, polo shirts, Bermuda shorts (often in tartans and flannel) and logo sweatshirts by brands such as Tommy Hilfinger and Ralph Lauren were popular components of the preppy look, along with rugby and oxford shirts, cardigans, chinos, v-neck and argyle sweaters, and knee socks.

Goth

The punk trends of the seventies and eighties continued into the nineties through the emergence of the Goth movement. Citing origins from the Victorian era, Goth fashions were focused around black clothing, accessories, and cosmetics. Black velvets and lace, empire dresses, corsets, fishnet stockings, leather garments, ruffled long skirts, and thigh-high boots were signature elements of goth dressing. Brightly dyed hair, an element of early punk fashion, was incorporated as well. Lingerie elements, including corsetry, hook-and-eye closures, and exposed garters were included in many Goth fashions.

Grunge

Marc Jacobs Grunge collection shown for Vogue, 1992

The developing music scene that emerging from Seattle in the early nineties gave way to the Grunge movement. Strongly anti-commerce, anti-establishment, anti-fame and anti-celebrity, Grunge artists such as Nirvana, Pearl Jame, Courtney Love and Soundgarden embraced a simple, straightforward look completely absent of logos and any trace of corporate brands. Grunge fashion was generally unkempt and disheveled, and communicated a message of shabby poverty through the use of ripped jeans, flannel, thrifted and vintage clothing. Hooded sweatshirts, workboots, babydoll dresses worn with ripped tights, wool cardigans, and combat boots were embraced by college students. Dark colors were utilized in fabrics, including maroon, brown, deep indigo, and spruce green. Hair was often uncombed and shaggy; dark visible roots were preferable on women, as was long hair on men.

Ironically, the fashion industry marketed "grunge fashion" to consumers, charging premium prices for items such as knit ski hats. Designers such as Marc Jacobs and even Chanel incorporated an element of Grunge fashion into their collections, whether through the use of plaid, flannel or distressed finishes. Critics asserted that advertising was co-opting elements of grunge and turning it into a fad. Entertainment Weekly commented in a 1993 article, "There hasn't been this kind of exploitation of a subculture since the media discovered hippies in the '60s." The New York Times compared the "grunging of America" to the mass-marketing of punk rock, disco, and hip hop in previous years.

Hip-Hop

Salt-N-Pepa

Chanel 1991 runway, showing a strong hip-hop influence

 In the early 1990s, pop rappers such as The Fresh Prince, Salt and Pepper, Kid 'n Play, and Left Eye of TLC popularized baseball caps and bright, often neon-colored, clothing. Hip-hop stars wore clothing items such as brightly colored name-brand tracksuits, sheepskin and leather bomber jackets, throwback pullover baseball jerseys, graphic-print t-shirts and neon-colored sneakers. Oversized bomber jackets, bold gold jewelery, baggy carpenter jeans and overalls were popular among young men as casual wear. For women, TLC popularized oversized pants paired with a tight shirt and  a sports bra underneath. Door knocker earrings, flashy chains, and gold belt buckles were also embraced by female hip-hop stars.

The sagging trend became a popular element of hip-hop culture beginning in the early 1990's. According to Wikipedia, Lee D. Baker, Dean of Academic Affairs at Duke University, states that it is widely believed sagging was adopted from the United States prison system where belts are prohibited. Belts are sometimes prohibited to avoid suicide by hanging oneself, or to avoid being used as a weapon in fights.The style was later popularized by hip-hop artists and trickled down into mainstream black culture.

Minimalism

Calvin Klein spring/summer 1995

In the late 1990's fashion began to move towards silhouettes with influence in minimalism. Designers such as Calvin Klein and Prada created clothes with no embellishment in a dramatically stark, dramatic palette of colors. Basic black, gray, and white pieces in the form of slim cigarette pants, v-neck sweaters and tee shirts, silk slip dresses,  a-line skirts and shift dresses were worn. American designers such as Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors showed sleek, elegant clothes, typically paired with no jewelry, extremely natural looking makeup, and sleek hair parted in the middle.

A group of designers known as the Antwerp Five came to prominence in the late 1990's, and further developed the minimalism trend. Three influential members of the group were Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, and Walter Van Beirendocnck. Fluid, streamlined designs in exquisitely tailored pieces managed to be both classical and original. Utilitarian touches such as buckles, grommets and exposed zippers defined the modern, austere aesthetic.

Thrifting 101, part 18: Dating vintage clothes by era - the 1980's

Three weeks ago in Thrifting 101, I began exploring the history of fashion from the 1920's to the 1950's  in order to help you determine the age of a garment while thrifting. Two week ago, we focused on the 1960's; last week we delved into the 1970's. This week I'll follow the fashion timeline through the 1980's. Understanding more about the history of modern dressing is a great way to figure out when a garment was made.

Missed any previous parts of the series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs, tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments, and advice for shopping for vintage online.

The 1980's

Design in the 1980's can be summed up in one word: exaggeration. Fashion, whether oversized or shrunken, crumpled or tailored, pastel or neon, short or long, sexy or mannish, bare or covered, sophisticated or innocent, was taken to excess. Along with their clothes, women's bodies became, by the end of a decade obsessed with fitness, changed - breasts became bigger and chests broader; arms and legs more muscular; and even faces became silicone-enlarged with plumped pouty full lips and sculpted cheekbones.

The baby-boom generation continued to have great influence over what was produced and purchased. As these men and women transformed themselves from hippies and rebels into yuppies, their tastes became more luxurious and their appetites for new experiences more intense. They found having money more acceptable and pleasurable; they started having families and demanded comfortable living environments; and as they aged they became more fascinated with nostalgia and kitsch.

In fashion, just about every style since the crinoline resurfaced. The decade saw nineteenth century bustles and crinolines; 1920's drop waist chemises and bias-cut silks; World War II large structured shoulders; and sheath dresses and day-glow miniskirts from the 1960's. Revivals from the 1970's included the renewed interest in ethnic fabrics and silhouettes. Despite all of these influences, a number of distinct styles encapsulate 1980's fashion.

Power dressing

As women became a more formidable force in the workplace, they focused their concern on diminishing decorative and alluring dressing and turned towards a more masculine uniform. Across the country, structured blazers with padded shoulders, man-tailored shirts, bow ties and pleated pants were adopted. Many outfits had Velcro on the inside of the shoulder where various sized pads could be attached. Power dressing rested largely on suits but also included straight, simple pencil skirts paired with silk bowed blouses in subdued prints. The look managed to be both masculine and feminine. Bold tailoring and men's fabrics were used in interesting combination. Donna Karen, designing directly for the women executive, was influential by introducing curvier shapes highlighted by wide belts and softer draping. Brighter and more contrasting colors, higher heels, and signature accessories including scarves, eye-catching jewelry, and even lavish underwear became the signature of the self-possessed woman.

Women's fashion and business shoes revisited the pointed toes and spiked heels that were popular in the 1950's and early 1960's. Some stores stocked canvas or satin covered fashion shoes in white and dyed them to the customer's preferred color. While the most popular shoes amongst young women were bright colored high heels, jellies - colorful, transparent plastic flats - become popular as well.

Glamour Dressing

The Dynasty cast

 

The television shows Dynasty and Dallas, watched by over 250 million viewers around the world in the 1980s, influenced fashion in mainstream America and perhaps most of the Western world. The show influenced women to wear glitzy jewelry as a way of flaunting wealth. Designers such as Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Caroline Hererra, Bob Mackie, Scassi, and Victor Costa introduced more formal shapes featuring billowing skirts and trains, elaborate draping, and huge puffed sleeves. Satins, chiffon, and taffeta were utilized, often embellished with rhinestones, silver threads, and sequins. Shorter party dresses, with puffed bubble shirts supported by tulle and taffeta, were embraced by younger women to wear to proms and weddings.

Dancewear

Drew Barrymore in a short, tight Lycra dress

A new obsession with fitness brought the classic leotard back into the gym from the discos of the 1970's. Accompanied by matching tights, legwarmers, and elastic headbands, leotards of the early 1980s boasted bright stripes, polka dots, and even elastic belts. The popularity of aerobics and of dance-themed television shows and movies, such as Fame, and Staying Alive, created a dancewear fashion craze, and leotards, legwarmers, and headbands were soon being worn as street wear. The 1983 film Flashdance popularized ripped sweatshirts that exposed one bare shoulder. Celebrity dancewear inspirations of the era included Olivia Newton John's Physical video and Jane Fonda's line of aerobic videos. 

Betsey Johnson and Norma Kamali introduced spandex clothing into their collections and spawned a number of imitators. Miniskirts, bodycon dresses, leggings, stirrup pants, bicycle shorts, tank tops, and bodysuits were produced in dazzling colors and shimmering Lycras.  Cropped tops exposed toned, bare midriffs. Bright, contrasting colors were utilized in exaggerated prints.

Ornamental

1980's cabbage rose print dress

 

The solid earth-tones of the 1970's gave way to floral, nature-influenced prints and fabrics. Cabbage roses, paisleys, and even fruit and vegetable prints appeared on dresses. Polka dots, tartans, tweeds, and brocades were accented with decorative tassels, bows, and ribbons, as well as beads. The decade ensembles were accompanied hats and gloves, chosen for fun rather than function. Hair ornaments, scarves, shawls, patterned stockings, whimsical shoes became important. Clothes by Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, Geoffrey Bean, and Anne Klein were worn with complimentary shoes, pocketbooks, and costume jewelry.

The Madonna influence

In the 1980s, rising pop star Madonna became extremely influential to female fashions. She first emerged with what was dubbed her "street urchin" look, consisting of short skirts worn over leggings, necklaces, rubber bracelets, fishnet gloves, hair bows, long layered strings of fake pearls, bleached, untidy hair with dark roots, head bands, and lace ribbons. In her Like a Virgin phase, millions of young girls around the world emulated her lingerie worn as outerwear, huge crucifix jewelery, lace gloves, tulle skirts, and boy toy belts.

Gloves, sometimes lace and/or fingerless, were also popularized by Madonna, as well as fishnet stockings. Short, tight Lycra or leather miniskirts and tubular dresses were also worn, as were cropped, bolero-style jackets.

Punk fashion

A continuation of the 1970's punk movement, punk in the 80's was characterized by towering multi-colored mohawks, ripped skinny jeans, worn band tee-shirts, and jean or leather jackets, it was practiced by people who listened to punk music such as The Sex Pistols and later Guns N' Roses. Jean jackets (which became an identity of the group) were adorned by safety pins, buttons, and patches. Punk fashions eventually evolved into the hair metal and metal head movement.

Long, teased, permed and crimped hair; leather rocker jackets with cut-off denim jackets; tight worn-out jeans, black concert tee shirts (often ripped); black nail polish, spiked bracelets and dog-collars, and all-black outfits, often made of leather or velvet trimmed in lace or fishnet material became signatures of the metal movement.

Preppy

Conservative college students began to embrace a style that became knows as the prep look. Influenced by tailored, conservative prep-school uniforms, the style included long, camel-hair blazers, plaid miniskirts, pastel-colored polo shirts with turned-up "popped" collars (often made by Lacoste and Ralph Lauren), oxford shirts, bold striped rugby shirts, cuffed pleated khakis and loafers. Madras shorts in mixed plaids and longer, Bermuda-lengths were adopted by teenagers. Wide-wale corduroy pants, often in camel and tan, were worn by both men and women. Simple, subtle jewelry also dominated the look, in the form of thin gold chains, pearl stud earrings, and gold hoops.

Thrifting 101, Part 17: Dating vintage clothes by era - The 1970's

Two weeks ago in Thrifting 101, I began exploring the history of fashion from the 1920's to the 1950's  in order to help you determine the age of a garment while thrifting. Last week we discussed the 196o's, and this week I'll follow the fashion timeline through the 1970's. Understanding more about the history of modern dressing is a great way to figure out when a garment was made.

Missed any previous parts of the series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs, tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments, and advice for shopping for vintage online.

The 1970's

The 1970's began where the 1960's left off: restless, critical of the status quo, questioning traditional authority and social hierarchies, and flamboyantly expressive. The social upheavals that swept the nation in the mid 1960's - civil rights, women's liberation, environmental movement, and gay liberation - continued to shape the 1970's. But the seventies were not merely a repeat of the sixties. Political protest movements lost steam and the focus turned instead to lifestyle and concumption. America's turn inward bequeathed the era that earned the sardonic title of "the me decade."

Seventies fashion can be broken down into six very distinctive areas. The societal focus from social movement, towards the rediscovery of the self, contributed to the concept of using fashion as a tool for pleasing yourself. These six distinctive fashion trends during the seventies were bohemia, blaxploitation, glam rock, disco, punk, and Victoria/Art Nouveau.

The influence of the self styled hippy clothes and the mish-mash of 1970s fashion from every corner of the global village crept into mainstream fashion. Easier travel meant that people brought ideas and accessories from abroad. Others looked for designers to provide styles that fitted the mood of an era, that had returned to nature and was anti-Vietnam-war in outlook. By the late 1970s women travelling in enclosed heated cars could choose to wear lighter weight clothes and abandon full length coats. Homes and stores almost universally became centrally heated, and most women could tolerate a chill mad dash between car and front door knowing that warmth awaited them.

Bohemia

Efva Attling & Lars Jacob, 1971

German fashion models, 1972, showing a range of skirt lengths

1970's fashion began with a continuation of the miniskirt, bellbottoms and androgynous hippie look. Jeans remained frayed and tie-dye and Mexican print blouses were still popular. In addition to the miniskirt, mid calf-length dresses called midis and ankle-length dresses called maxis were also embraced in 1970 and 1971, thus offering women three different skirt lengths.

Afghans, Indian scarves, and floral-print tunics were embraced by younger women. One frequently worn style was the granny dress with a high neck. Sometimes the neck was pie-crust frilled, or lace frilled. Often these dresses were made from floral print design in a warm color palate from viscose rayon crepe which was draped and gathered into empire line styles. Halter-neck dresses and jumpsuits also became popular, either in maxi length or above the knee.

The Hippies of the sixties had brought with them clothes from other ethnic groupings which had often never even been seen before in the west. Nehru jackets and loose flowing robes from hot countries made their way to world cities and permeated down to mainstream fashion, helped of course by designers like Yves St Laurent. The ethnic influence was so strong that it revived craft skills from far flung places. Macramé bags and bikinis from the Greek Isles and crochet waistcoats and shawls from Spain were all high fashion.

Blaxsploitation

The 1970s produced the genre that would later come to be known as 'Blaxploitation'. The film genre emerged during this decade as films were made specifically with an urban black audience in mind. These movies were larger-than-life, action-packed, and full of funk and soul music. Known not only for their exciting nature, these films also involved progressive social and political commentary. Produced from about 1970 to 1975, blaxploitation films focused on black men and women as anti-heroes waging battles against the corrupt white establishment. The movies were counter-intuitive of the mainstream white-produced movies featuring clean-cut black heroes by empowering a drug dealer or pimp to protect ghetto blacks from the brutality of "the man." Stars such an Pam Grier, Issac Hayes, Billy Dee Williams and Sydney Poitier asserted a strong influence over modern culture.

From the mid to late 70s, caftans, kaftans, kimonos, muumuus, djellaba (a Moroccan robe with a pointed hood) or jalabiya (a loose eastern robe) and other styles from every part of the Indian sub-continent and Africa, were translated into at home style robes and comfort wear. They were worked in every fabric imaginable, but were especially suited as glamour dressing when sewn in exotic fabrics and edged in silver, gold or other metallic embroidered trims. Bright, colorful African prints were utilized in long flowing kaftans. The afro was worn by both sexes throughout the decade, and was occasionally sported by whites as an alternative to the uniform long, straight hair which was a fashion mainstay until the arrival of punk and the "disco look" when hair became shorter and center partings were no longer the mode.


Glam Rock

David Bowie

In both Britain and the United States, fashion from 1972-1974 were influenced by the extravagantly dressed glam rock stars such as David Bowie, Roxy Music and Marc Bowlan. Musically it was very diverse, varying between the simple rock and roll revivalism of figures like Alvin Stardust to the complex art rock of Roxy Music, and can be seen as much as a fashion as a musical sub-genre. Visually it was a mesh of various styles, ranging from 1930s Hollywood glamour, through 1950s pin-up sex appeal, pre-war Cabaret theatrics, Victorian literary and symbolist styles, science fiction, to ancient and occult mysticism and mythology; manifesting itself in outrageous clothes, makeup, and hairstyles. Glam is most noted for its sexual and gender ambiguity and representations of androgyny, beside extensive use of theatrics.

Glam rock fashion includes platform shoes, lots of glittery make-up for both men and women, face painting, colored and spiked hair, Victorian style shirts, vests, leather, feathers, lots of metallic and space-age colors. In the early 1970s platform shoes started with a slim sole which moved from ¼ inch up to about 4 inches at the peak of popularity. By the mid seventies the most ordinary people were wearing two inch deep platforms without a second thought

Glam rock fashion had a futuristic look and was influenced by science fiction. Flamboyant fashion included vinyl clothing and accessories, leopard and fur vests, feathered detailing and sparkly suits for both men and women. Cosmetics accentuated the look, with both sexes embracing mascara, theatrical face paint, lipstick. Make-up was garish and glittery, with eyebrows thinly plucked. David Bowie's rooster-red crewcut and shaved eyebrows pushed boundaries, and strongly influenced the upcoming punk wave.

Disco

Halston and the Halstonettes, ca. 1977

By the mid 1970's fashion strongly began to reflect the popularity of disco. Tight lurex tops, metallic-coloured lamé and antique velvet dresses, satin hot pants, sequined bra tops, and occasionally ostrich- feather boas draped over shoulders or turbans appeared on young women. Stretch sequin bandeau tops were often adaptations of professional modern dance wear that found itself making an impact in discos as disco dancing became serious. Gold lame, leopard skin, stretch halter jumpsuits and white clothes that glowed in ultra violet light capture the 70s disco fashion perfectly.

The king of disco fashion was Roy Halston, and his Studio 54 minions were dubbed the Halstonettes. His work was classic American sportswear in jersey and simple silhouettes.  For nighttime, the look was accessorized with heavy make-up and lots of jewelry. Jumpsuits, polyester and jersey dresses, and one-shouldered tops and swimsuits were characteristic of Halston's 1970's look.


In 1971 extremely short, tight short called hot pants began to appear on young women, typically made from satin, cotton or nylon. With an inseam of two inches or less, they were meant to emphasize the legs and rear. Their popularity spread with the development of disco culture and eventually crept into daily wear.

Stretch sequin bandeau tops were often adaptations of professional modern dance wear that found itself making an impact in discos as disco dancing became serious.The dancer's leotard became an important feminine fashion accessory in 1974, and remained in style throughout the decade. The traditional long-sleeve leotard was popular as the "layered style" of the mid-1970s took hold, where it served less as clothing than as a way to add color and texture to the body. In the late 1970s the leotard had become a standard fashion icon of the disco scene, where flexibility and ease of movement were important. It was helped by an extensive advertising campaign in the late 1970s by Danskin which promoted their leotards and tights as "not just for dancing". Celebrities of the 1970s also appeared regularly wearing leotards, including Joni Mitchell, Cher, and even Rod Stewart. The leotards popularity was still climbing at the end of the decade, and exploded with the arrival of the aerobics craze in the early 1980s.

The jersey wrap dress, first designed by Diane von Fürstenberg in 1971 and an extension of dance wear, became an extremely popular item, as it flattered a number of different body types and sizes, and could be worn both to the office, as well as to nightclubs and discos.

By the mid-1970s hip-huggers were gone, replaced by the high-waisted jeans and trousers with wide, flared legs. In Britain, they were often referred to as "Loon pants". These lasted until the end of the decade when the straight, cigarette-leg jeans came into vogue. Women wore high-waisted flared pants made from satin or denim, sometimes decorated with rhinestones.

Punk

Vivienne Westwood (in plaid), 1977

Punk rock was an intentional rebuttal of the perceived excess and pretension found in mainstream music, and early punk fashion was defiantly anti-materialistic. Generally unkempt, often short hairstyles replaced the long-hair hippie look and the usually elaborate 1970s rock/disco styles. In the United States, simple clothes, such as the T-shirt/jeans/leather jacket style favored by the Ramones was preferred over the  colorful clothing popular in the disco scene.

In the United Kingdom, a great deal of punk fashion from the 1970s was based on the designs of Vivienne Westwood. Incorporating bright plaids, black lace and corsetry with heavy-soled boots and ripped tights, Westwood's clothes became symbolic of the debauchery of the era. Deliberately offensive t-shirts were popular in the early punk scene, some featuring an inverted crucifix and swastikas. These T-shirts, like other punk clothing items, were often purposely torn. Other items in early punk fashion included leather jackets, blazers, and dress shirts randomly covered in slogans,  patches and controversial images.

Fishnet stockings (sometimes ripped), studded or spiked jewelry, safety pins (in clothes and as body piercings); silver bracelets and heavy eyeliner was by both men and women. There was a 'do it yourself' quality to the fashion. Many female punks rebelled against the stereotypical image of a woman by combining clothes that were delicate or pretty with clothes that were considered masculine, such as combining a tutu with big, clunky boots.

Punk clothing sometimes incorporated everyday objects for aesthetic effect. Purposely-ripped clothes were held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape. Other items added to clothing or as jewelery included razor blades and chains. Leather, rubber and vinyl clothing became more common.

Preferred footwear included military boots, motorcycle boots, Chuck Taylor All-Stars and later, Dr. Martens boots. Tapered jeans, tight leather pants, trousers with leopard patterns and bondage pants were popular choices. Hair was cropped and deliberately made to look messy, and was often dyed bright unnatural colors. Although provocative, these hairstyles were not as extreme as later punk hairstyles in the early 1980's.

Victorian/Art Nouveau

Bianca Jagger in Victorian dress

Bianca in a silk hand-painted kaftan

Emerging as a counterbalance to the defiant fashion of the punk trend were the clothes offered by designers such as Bib, Chloe and Ossie Clark. A soft, feminine, and romantic silhouette emerged, in pieces such relaxed, flowing, loose sportswear. Rich, sumptuous materials such as silks, jersey, chiffon, and lace accentuated slinky styles. This fluid unstructured style borrowed strongly from from the feeling of 1930's glamour.

Knitwear and knitted jersey fabrics were the easy classic dressing of the 70s. Chunky hand knitted cardigans like the ones worn in Starsky and Hutch were soon paraded around town. The most iconic designers of knitwear were Bill Gibb and Missoni. Their zig-zagged knit patterns and complex intricate designs in bright colors were frequently copied in department stores, and ushered in a blossoming of hand and machine knitting nationwide.

At the same time coordinated color schemed clothes slowly began to enter the stores and boutiques. Suddenly it was possible to buy a skirt or trousers and top and not have to spend hours searching for tops and knits in other shops that just might coordinate with the items. Late seventies fashion included the emergence of silk, rayon and polyester tanks, which softly draped over flared pants and long maxi skirts. The tank top of the 70s was a forerunner to the scoop necked camisole top of the 1980s, the shell of the 1990s and the vest of the millennium.  It was a useful garment often paired with a matching v-neck long cardigan similar to the 1950's twin sets.

Thrifting 101, Part 16: Dating vintage clothing by era - The 1960's

Like many fashion lovers, I've had a serious, passionate relationship with vintage clothing since I first fell in love with dressing up.  This relationship began when I was in middle school and has grown stronger with each year that passes. My attraction to vintage initially began as a sort of rebellion - I wanted to dress independently from my peers, and wearing vintage and thrifted clothing set me apart. But I also loved the time machine feel vintage clothing caused - stepping into a decades-old item instantly transported me back to that era.

My first pieces of vintage clothing were hand-me-downs from my parents. My mom and dad were pseudo-hippies to the extreme. They did not head for San Fransisco following the Grateful Dead. They didn't live in a commune or grow their own vegetables. Nor did they construct homemade signs protesting the Vietnam War, nuclear development, or civil rights. However, they were dressed appropriately for such activities. I am certain they believed their clothes demonstrated their inclusion into the counter-culture. A far as they were concerned, they were radicals. They were bohemians. Along with their generation, they left the mainstream behind and bravely moved forward into the world of dirty hair and folk music.

My mother ironed her locks straight, parted them in the middle, and grew them down to her waist. Early photos of her document the free-spirited hippie style that dominated the 1960's - bell bottom jeans, clogs, love beads and peasant blouses. She also owned a leather fringed vest, minidresses in ethnic prints, and Native American jewelry. My dad sported an impressive Jew-fro, the afro of the whitest white people populating the planet, and a bushy mustache. His clothes were purchased at the army-navy surplus store. His claims to glory were the road trip he took around the country in his VW minivan, and his trip to Woodstock, where he hitchhiked and slept in the mud.

Eventually, my mom and dad abandoned their dirty clothes and counterculture ways. My dad began to wear neckties and suits. My mom cut her hair and started listening to Blondie. They bought a co-op in a deeply suburban neighborhood, sold their VW minivan, and eventually passed their hippie clothing down to me.

Last week in Thrifting 101, I began exploring the history of fashion from the 1920's to the 1950's  in order to help you determine the age of a garment while thrifting. This week we'll pick up in 1960, and follow the fashion timeline to the 1980's. Understanding more about the history of modern dressing is a great way to figure out when a garment was made. 


Missed any previous parts of the series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs, tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments, and advice for shopping for vintage online.


The 1960's

1964 junior's catalog

  

1960 began a decade which may well be recorded as one of the most fashion-conscious periods in recent history. It was a decade that broke many fashion traditions, mirroring social movements during the period.The postwar baby boom resulted in large teenage population, and these young people spurred a revolution in fashion not seen since the carefree flappers of the roaring twenties.

Early 1960's fashions largely continued the silhouettes popular in the prior decade. However, slim new shapes were seen alongside hourglass silhouettes of the 1950's.  The full skirt and fitted bodices of dresses gave way to straight shirt-dresses, and simple cotton shifts. Slim flat-front pants were also popular. Collarless and sleeveless dresses were preferred, with lean lines and an undefined waist. Dresses often came with a cropped boxy overbodice in matching fabric, or a matching fabric coat. Solid pastel or neutral colors dominated fashion. Jackie Kennedy's pillbox hat and simple, clean shift dresses remain emblematic of the period.

Softness and naturalness pervaded fabrics, and traditional seasonal taboos were ignored and a number of colors, fabrics, and patterns were acclaimed as year-round staples. Unlike in previous decades, fashion direction was dictated more by time of day than by temperature or locale.

In 1964, Mary Quaint introduced the miniskirt, and the fashion world changed forever. Quaint worked with bright colors and bold patterns and ushered in the mid-sixties Mod movement. Styles were reduced to boxy or A-line shape, with slim shirts and fitted pants. Funky, with-it clothes , influenced by Pop Art and Op Art, began to appear, often featuring Mondrian prints on shift dresses and geometric, linear designs. Clothes such as these were accessorized with bold costume jewelry. Variations of polyester and acrylic fabrics were used, in addition to PVC, vinyl and Lucite. Footwear for women included low-heeled sandals, kitten pumps, and white knee-high boots. Accessories were often made from patent leather or glossy vinyl. Flat boots with pointed toes, also know as Beetle boots, also became popular.

Mod fashion

The miniskirt was also utilized in babydoll dresses, another style popularized by the Mod movement. The baby doll look was quite literal: it featured very short skirts, high waistlines, puffed sleeves, Peter Pan collars, jumper or apron affects, lots of lace and ruffles, and sometimes even bloomers. Hemlines kept rising, and by 1968 reached mid-thigh.

Mary Quaint in a babydoll jumper, mid 1960's

Mid-sixties fashion also included a brief popularity of Edwardian style, characterized by crushed velvets, jeweled braiding, and brocades in rich colors. Striped shirts, mini-dresses with lace collars and cuffs, and opulent coats were embraced by teenagers and college students.By 1968 young people had found another place to shop: antique clothing shops, army-navy outlets, and ethnic stores. At antique stores women hunted for fringed shawl, lacy blouses, long velvet coats and dresses. Ethnic stores provided tie-die tunics, embroidered clothes, Mexican wedding dresses, trade-bead necklaces and and rings hung with miniature bells. Even the most conservative designers adapted the new ethnic look through bolero vests, dirndl skirts, and glittering brocades.

By the late 1960's Edwardian fashion evolved into the psychedelic hippie look, characterized by bellbottom jeans, long shawls, scarves and fringed jackets. Influenced by the emerging folk music scene, clothing was inspired by simple country wear with the use of corduroy, flannel, and denim. Ethnic influences continued to pervade fashion. Fringed buck-skin vests, flowing caftans, Mexican peasant blouses, gypsy-style skirts, scarves, and bangles were also worn by teenage girls and young women. Indian prints, batik and paisley were the fabrics preferred.

The long skirt showed up in 1965, and by 1986 the midi dress appeared in nearly every major collection. With its fitted bodice, long sleeves, and full skirt, ending just below the knee, it was an extension of both the peasant-ethnic influence and the babydoll dress.

Hippie group, San Fransisco 1967 (photo by Irving Penn)

More conservative women preferred lounging or hostess pajamas. These consisted of a tunic top over floor-length culottes, and were usually made of polyester or chiffon. Designers such as Scassi, Anne Klein, and Norell featured palazzo-pant pajamas in silk, stretch fabrics and polyesters, either paired with long loose tops or short cropped blouses.

Late 1960's polyester lounging pajama pattern

Another popular look for women and girls which lasted well into the early 1970s was the suede mini-skirt worn with a French polo-neck top, square-toed boots, and Newsboy cap or beret. Long maxi coats, often belted and lined in sheepskin, appeared at the close of the decade.Animal prints were also popular for women in the autumn and winter of 1969. Women's shirts often had transparent sleeves.

Thrifting 101, Part 15: Dating vintage clothing by era 1920-1960

A few weeks ago, a reader left me a question on one of my Thrifting 101 posts that generated a lot of thought. Her question regarded how she could determine whether a thrifted item was vintage, or merely old. Today's vintage market encompasses more than 100 years of popular style. From silk flapper dresses from the twenties, to 1950's beaded sweaters, to 70's polyester day dresses, to shoulder-padded blazers from the 1980's, particular styles and fabrics have long been associated with particular eras in fashion history.

Generally speaking, an item of clothing is considered to be vintage if it is more than 25 years old. However, I'm uncomfortable with such a vague and arbitrary classification. Vintage is not just about age. It has evolved into a fashion term, and is much more about essence and style. There's a lot of clothing in thrift and vintage shops that's more than two decades old, but I would not include in my personal definition of vintage. I think we can all agree that not every piece of thirty year-old double knit polyester deserves to be celebrated. Sure, it might meet the age requirement, but that's about it.

Conversely, there are some styles that are not particularly "old" but are considered to be a part of vintage fashion. Certain designs from the 1980's are becoming more collectible today, such as oversized blazers with substantial shoulder pads, sequined tops, and poufy taffeta prom dresses. Therefore, the true definition of vintage contains an element of enduring, iconic style. That can include classic tailoring, in the form of Chanel's 1920's boxy suits in neutral colors, to something innovative, such as the invention and widespread use of rayon and viscose fibers in the 1940's. Therefore, whether old or not so old, vintage fashions are about styles that are pioneering, innovative, or iconic as well as being reflective of their era.

A few weeks ago, Part 5 of my Thrifting 101 series discussed tips for thrifting for vintage. The presence of a union tag, type of zipper used, and the zipper placement are tools through which one can, determine whether a garment is vintage or not. This week, I'll go a little deeper and examine how silhouettes have changed throughout the history of fashion and use this information to help ascertain the era of a vintage garment. Understanding more about the history of modern dressing is a great way to figure out when a garment was made.

Missed any previous parts of the series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs, tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments, and advice for shopping for vintage online.

The Roaring Twenties

1920 dressmaker model

The 1920's are the era in which fashion became modern. The end of World War I brought optimism to the country, and social customs and morals were relaxed. Historians have characterized the decade as a time of frivolity, abundance and happy-go-lucky attitudes.  Several years had passed since the end of World War I.  People felt free-spirited and wanted to have fun. As a result, fashions became less formal.

The 1920s saw the emergence of three major women's fashion magazines:  Vogue, The Queen, and Harper's Bazaar.  Vogue was first published in 1892, but its up-to-date fashion information did not have a marked impact on women's desires for fashionable garments until the 20's.  These magazines provided mass exposure for popular styles and fashions. Paris continued to be the seat of haute couture (high fashion). Coco Chanel exerted a great influence during the decade, appealing to the practical American woman through her use of simple ensembles, scarves and inexpensive jewelry.

The invention of rayon, known as artificial silk, in 1910 led to the creation of looser, more sensuous clothing.  The straight line chemise, accentuated with a drop waist and often embellished with Art Deco detailing, fringe and beading, is 0ne of the signature fashions of the time. Women also embraced sports, and fashion followed with shorter skirts and the introduction of pleats to allow for more freedom in movement. Many garments of the 1920s fastened with buttons. The closer-fitting flapper- style dresses fastened with a continuous lap, usually applied to the left side seam of the garment.  Hooks and eyes, buttons, or snaps were all utilized to fasten the lap. The zipper, first patented in 1893, was not utilized in garments until the latter part of the decade. It was originally known  as a ìlockerî, and did not receive its current name until 1926. It was not widely used until the late 1930s.

In addition, the women's rights movement had a strong effect on fashions. The confining corset was discarded and replaced by a chemise or camisole and bloomers, later shortened to panties or knickers.  For the first time in centuries, women's legs were seen with hemlines rising to the knee and dresses becoming more fitted. A more masculine look became popular, including flattened breasts and hips, short hairstyles such as the bob cut, Eton Crop and the Marcel Wave. Signature accessories included the cloche hat and narrow leather pumps with Louis-style heels.

Fashion from 1930-1939

Dallas, Texas woman 1934

The 1930's began with a world-wide depression that would color nearly all aspects of the decade's fashion. Fashion changed seemingly overnight as women sought the comfort and familiarity of modest dressing. A softer, more feminine style replaced the boyish, flapper look of the twenties. Hemlines once again fell to just above the ankle, and the waistlines rose to its natural place. A narrow line continued to remain in place, accentuated with bias-cut dresses that fell in gentle folds and drapes. The incorporation of zippers (replacing buttons, snaps, and complicated hook-and-eye closures) and emergence of belts encouraged more form-fitting silhouettes. Clothes were simple, with little embellishment, and often made from cotton, rayon, garbardine and crepe.

Sharp-shouldered jackets with shoulder pads became popular, and were embraced by Hollywood stars such as Lauren Bacall and Katherine Hepburn. The entertainment industry began to exert a strong influence over fashion. Movies were one of the few escapes from the harsh reality of the Depression, and movie star endorsements of styles and accessories became common, especially with evening wear. A popular formal look was the empire-waisted gown, with ties at the back. The dress might boast butterfly or large, puffy sleeves. Hemlines fell at the ankle and trains added a further formal touch. Fabric flowers might be placed at the neckline, on one shoulder, or at the center waist or center neckline. Bows were another popular accent. The peplum made its debut in the late thirties evening wear. Fur of all kinds was worn extensively during this era, both during the day and at night. Fur capes, coats, stoles wraps, accessories and trimmings adorned women's dresses. Pelts in demand were sable, mink, chinchilla, Persian lamb and silver fox.

1939-1950

Wartime fashion show, ca. 1943

The emergence of World War II brought wartime restrictions on material, decorative trim, patch pockets and oversized sleeves, and resulted in streamlined fashions. One quote from a fashion magazine notes: "The Silhouette for 1943 is slim, pillar-like, with not a bit of extra material that could be used by Uncle Sam." While the decade of the thirties saw the theme of thrift in purchasing garments, the theme of the forties was a conservative look which would remain fashionable through multiple seasons. Women's magazines were abundant with articles on proper care of garments for maximum wear.

In an effort to comply with the restrictions outlined in the regulation, American designers created a new style of suits for women. Skirts were short and straight topped by short jackets of twenty-five inches or less in length. Cardigans matched skirts and sheath evening dresses replaced the long flowing gowns of the thirties. Hemlines rose to just below the knee, and skirts were slim over the hips. Fashion separates were embraced by women of all ages - skirts and sweaters, tailored blouses, and jumpers became increasingly popular. High-waisted trousers became increasingly popular as well, and blue jeans, once reserved for farm or factory, became a fad.

Short hair remained fashionable in the early 1930s, but gradually hair was worn longer in soft or hard curls. Most hairstyles were smooth at the crown to accommodate a hat, with curls framing the face and at the ends. Manufacturers and retailers introduced coordinating ensembles of hat, gloves and shoes, or gloves and scarf, or hat and bag, often in striking colors.

The 1950's
 

College fashion, early 1950's

Magazine models, late 1950;s

Fashion in the years following World War II is characterized by the reemergence of haute couture after the austerity of the war years. Square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by the soft femininity of Christian Dior's "New Look" silhouette, with its sweeping longer skirts, fitted waist, and rounded shoulders, which in turn gave way to an unfitted, structural look in the later 1950s.

A flood of synthetic fabrics and easy-care processes emerged in the 1950's. "Drip-dry" nylon, orlon and dacron, which could retain heat-set pleats after washing, became immensely popular. Acrylic, polyester, triacetate and spandex were all introduced, and utilized in sportswear. Designers emphasized a new hour-glass shape, in contrast with the wartime silhouette with extended shoulders and straight shapes. 1950's clothing demanded a thin waist, sloping shoulders, and portly bust combined with rounded womanly hips.

Tailored suits had fitted jackets with peplums, usually worn with a long, narrow pencil skirt. Day dresses had fitted bodices and full skirts, with jewel or low-cut necklines or Peter Pan collars. Shirt dresses, with a shirt-like bodice, were popular, as were halter-top sundresses. Skirts were narrow or very full, held out with petticoats; poodle skirts were a brief fad. Evening gowns were often the same length as day dresses (called "ballerina length"), with full, frothy skirts. Cocktail dresses, "smarter than a day dress but not as formal as a dinner or evening dress", were worn for early-evening parties. Short shrugs and bolero jackets, often made to match low-cut dresses, were worn. Casual wear included slim, cropped pants and rompers. Shorts were very short in the early '50s, and mid-thigh length Bermuda shorts appeared around 1954 and remained fashionable through the remainder of the decade. Loose printed or knit tops were fashionable with pants or shorts. Swimsuits were one- or two-piece; some had loose bottoms like shorts with short skirts. A tailored, feminine look was prized and accessories such as gloves and pearls were popular.

Next week, Thrifting 101 will focus on fashions from the 1960 through the mid 1980's. What's your favorite fashion era?

Thrifting 101, Part 14: Shopping for vintage online

Source: We Heart It

There's little I love as much as shopping for vintage in a thrift store. Whether I spend time digging through bins of clothes, shuffling hungrily through racks, or trolling estate sales for the perfect piece, the joy of uncovering a special garment is hard to beat. I truly enjoy the entire experience - chatting with little old ladies about where they found that beaded sweater in their cart; learning about new shipments from store employees; playing peek-a-boo with small children hiding in the racks. And don't even get me started on the high I get when I finally do uncover a vintage piece. A fruitful excursion sends me swooning and thanking the shopping gods for my bounty.

However, I doubt I would enjoy thrifting as much as I do if I had limited time to shop. Considering that the average time I spend in a store stretches to over an hour, feeling rushed would result in nothing but frustration. I believe there are many people who are unable to really enjoy thrifting because of time constraints. It takes real patience, and a generous amount of time, to dig out the perfect garment. In addition, thrift shopping is best accomplished during the day, specifically first thing in the morning when employees put new merchandise on the floor. Because few of us can afford to miss a day of work, we might lose out on landing the best pieces. There are also concerns of allergic reactions to dust and grime, physical discomforts due to extended periods on your feet, and the frustration of not finding what you're looking for even after spending hours hunting (which happens to me all the time, and I'm kind of an expert.)

Thanks to the internet, finding vintage pieces is possible without dealing with long lines, time constraints, and allergy attacks. With the abundance of sellers on Etsy, eBay, and through independent websites, it's possible to locate exactly what you're looking for without ever setting foot in a store. For this week's installment of Thrifting 101, I'm going to examine online shopping for vintage garments.

(Missed any previous posts in my Thrifting 101 series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs,  tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, and advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments.)

Before delving into the world of online vintage shopping, it's important to know your keywords. For those new to browsing vintage online this may take a little research. If you don't know the exact vintage terms (such a eyelet high-waisted dress or boho 70's Indian batik sundress) then just use the basic generic terms: “vintage dress”. While this will result in more choices then you can possibly examine, you'll eventually be able to narrow your search down to 50's cocktail dress with shelf bust or 70's crochet mini dress with scarf hem. If you're looking for a particular color or label, using those keywords will greatly narrow your search field while shopping for vintage clothes online.

Once you've found the item you're looking for, here's a list of things to check before placing your online order for vintage clothing and accessories:

• What is the store's return policy? If one is not clearly given, email and ask! A return policy is a must given the tricky nature of vintage clothes sizing (more on that in a bit.) Any reputable seller will graciously accept returns.  

• What type of online payments do they accept? If the shop doesn't accept credit cards, find one that does. Credit cards are a good source of protection if you have the unfortunate experience of dealing with someone that is not playing fair. Do they accept Paypal? I prefer to pay through Paypal when purchasing online - it's safe, reliable, and 100% guaranteed against unauthorized payments from your account.

• Check for feedback. Often, online stores will have a feedback or comments page. Reading feedback from previous customers can provide valuable information about the seller and their service.

• How does the shop describe their stock?  Many sellers have a rating system by which they specify the condition of their merchandise. Most sellers use the following system: Mint: An item is as perfect and pristine as when it was originally made and shows no sign of wear (mint condition is rare for vintage clothing). Near mint: An item shows only the slightest signs of wear. Excellent: An item shows typical signs of wear due to occasional use. Very good: An item is considered wearable but has some surface flaws (staining or soiling, for example). Good: An item is wearable but cannot be returned to excellent condition even if repairs are made. Be certain to check with the seller for an exact description of the piece you are interested in.

• Is the item from a smoke-free home? Cigarette smoke is one of the most difficult smells to remove, and is often truly impossible to get out (especially from leather - this is important when considering coats and accessories such as handbags.) Do not purchase vintage items from a seller who lives with a smoker, or whose items were acquired from a smoker. If the seller is at all vague about responding to your questions regarding smoke-free garments, move on.

If you've ever shopped for vintage, you know that sizes of yesteryear don't always correspond with those of modern sized pieces. Unfortunately for the online vintage shopper, this can pose somewhat of a problem.  The best way to determine whether an item will fit without trying it on is to measure yourself with an old-fashioned tape measure, and use those numbers to determine whether an item is right for your body. Here are some measurement guidelines your seller might use, based on specific garment:

Blouses, Tops, Coats, and Shirts:

1. Arm length is measured from shoulder seam to wrist hem.
2. Bust/chest measured from underarm, across the chest to the other underarm, then measurement is doubled.
3. Length is measured from shoulder to hem, or straight down the back not including collar.
4. Waist is measured across where a normal waist would fall and then doubled.
5. Back is measured from shoulder seam across to other shoulder seam.

Skirts and Dresses:

1. Dress length is measured from shoulder to hem.
2. Waist is measured across where an average waist falls, then doubled.
3. Skirt length is measured from waistband to hem.
4. Hips are measured across where an average hip falls, then doubled.
5. Front waist is measured from the base of the throat to the natural waist. (This helps to determine whether that cute 1950's dress is actually going to sit at your waistline or be above and short-waist you.)

Pants:

1. Inseam is measured from crotch down along inside of leg to hem.
2. Waist is measured across natural waist then doubled.
3. Rise is measured from the waist, down to the crotch.

Shoes: 

Shoes are measured lengthwise across the top of the shoe from the heel to the toe, and the width is measured across the sole at the ball of the foot. 

Have you shopped online for vintage? How has the experience differed from purchasing in-store? Do you prefer to shop in-store or online? Got any favorite sellers to recommend? Do you have an online vintage shop? Leave a comment and let us know!